Monday, November 29, 2010

North Africa here I come!

Anyone who knows me knows that I have am in a major love affair with the African continent so I couldn't pass up the chance to visit Marrakech, Morocco when I recently found a flight so cheap that it hurt my soul not to book it. One of the things I like about Rome is that it is so well connected to the rest of the world so in just a few short hours I was putting my feet on North African soil. Morocco will be my 8th Africa country visited so I was really excited to see how it differs from it's sub-Saharan cousins to the south. As we (I was joined by my wonderful classmate Natalie) began our descent into the city I was so excited to see that in every direction there were date and olive trees!

The city is really incredible, tiny alleys, very densely populated and full of life!

We've arrived!
Our hostel was down a pretty little alley

Above the alley was an ancient looking house
One of the things that really attracts me to Morocco is that it is a Muslim country.
I really enjoy the culture, including the prayer that is broadcast all over the city

Djemaa el Fna market square

One of the many stalls selling fresh dates, figs and nits

The Koutoubia Mosque, built in the 12th century


Menara Gardens, built in 1866 as the residence of the king


The basin of water behind me was created to provide irrigation to the surrounding
olive and fig trees. It was also used to teach soldiers how to swim.


The ceilings inside the building were breath taking, beautifully carved and painted,
dad really would have liked it.



One of my best memories happened the day I said to the hostel staff "What could we do today that would be really fun and not tourist?" Hiba said, "Why don't you come to my house!" Four of us joined Hiba that day, we took an hour long bus ride out of Marrakech. It was amazing to see the country side. It was also obvious by everyone's reactions that tourists never appear on the bus, everyone was staring and giggling at us.

We then flagged down a local taxi, aka a horse and wagon, and drove another 45 minutes out of town.

It was my first time taking a horse and wagon and I have to say it is a nice way to travel,
slow and steady, easy to see everything!

The traffic

My Xhosa grandfather would feel right at home here with all these donkeys!

When Hiba invited us to her house I didn't realize that her house was 800 years old!!! I thought she
was joking but her sister confirmed it. That is 3 times the age of my country!! Her family is
Berber who are thought to be the original people of Morocco.


Her house is made from the Earth, I was really impressed with the construction. The toilet is outside,
it is on the right in this picture, there was no door, I guess one needs to have good hearing

Hiba's mother was busy cooking dinner, they have two kitchens, this one and a more modern one with a fridge.

Hiba's Aunt came over to do Henna for us, it was so lovely

Good luck and good fortune

The ladies brought out two huge plates of vegetable couscous for us, and some spoons for us tourists.
We were joined by Hiba's three brothers, sister and mother. Her father was working in the city.

100% fresh produce

Then after we were stuffed full they brought out a plate of hand made pastries!

Mint tea is the thing to drink in Morocco, it is so tasty.


After a long day of receiving incredible hospitality from our Berber friends it was time to head home. Hiba called her friend with the horse and wagon and we ventured back to Marrakech. The next morning we headed to the market, a color labyrinth of maze-like streets, everywhere you look are things that are amazing, beautiful and interesting.
We met another family who treated us with kind Berber hospitality. As we entered this man's shop
we began chatting and before we knew it he had made a fresh pot of mint tea for us to enjoy. His son
joined us also.

The glasses were very hot so he served the glasses to us inside of little baby shoes ha ha

I bought several scarves from him and he showed me how to tie them Berber style.
I really like this style because the mouth covering can be put up or taken down very quickly.
It is really functional when there is a sand storm to protect yourself from the sand. It is also a nice
feature when you are around a lot of car spewing leaded fuel....

The man's son took us for a tour of the behind the scenes areas. My favorite was the dyer's market where
people hand dye sheep's wool.

The dye is all natural and they use many beautiful colors

Pretty wool balls



So many beautiful shoes and every one of them leather :( I guess you don't go to Morocco
to buy synthetic leather!

Our new friend, and my new German friend Romina

Speaking of wonderful people. This boy was the best salesman I have ever met in my life. I was
standing outside of his shop when he came outside to say hello. He said "you come with me and I will show you things". He took me by the hand and brought me to a wall of jars. "This one is for washing hair, and this one is for nice cooking, and this one is for upset stomach and this one....." He said he started working in the shop when he was only 3 years old, but he is in school too. He was so knowledgeable and I have to say it is pretty hard not to buy from him, he is so cute.
The city is surrounded by a wall, this is one of the pillars.


As our plane took off I was feeling so impressed with my time in Marrakech, I really loved it
and I cannot wait to go back. I was also really amazed by the thick cloud of smog over the city,
I guess that explains my scratcy throat. Time to switch to unleaded fuel Morocco!
See you soon.


One last video to make you smile. I took this while I walked through the main square.
As you can see from the end it was not appreciated. People want to be paid
if they appear on camera so I was quick to shut it off when my cover was blown ha ha.

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