Monday, November 29, 2010

North Africa here I come!

Anyone who knows me knows that I have am in a major love affair with the African continent so I couldn't pass up the chance to visit Marrakech, Morocco when I recently found a flight so cheap that it hurt my soul not to book it. One of the things I like about Rome is that it is so well connected to the rest of the world so in just a few short hours I was putting my feet on North African soil. Morocco will be my 8th Africa country visited so I was really excited to see how it differs from it's sub-Saharan cousins to the south. As we (I was joined by my wonderful classmate Natalie) began our descent into the city I was so excited to see that in every direction there were date and olive trees!

The city is really incredible, tiny alleys, very densely populated and full of life!

We've arrived!
Our hostel was down a pretty little alley

Above the alley was an ancient looking house
One of the things that really attracts me to Morocco is that it is a Muslim country.
I really enjoy the culture, including the prayer that is broadcast all over the city

Djemaa el Fna market square

One of the many stalls selling fresh dates, figs and nits

The Koutoubia Mosque, built in the 12th century


Menara Gardens, built in 1866 as the residence of the king


The basin of water behind me was created to provide irrigation to the surrounding
olive and fig trees. It was also used to teach soldiers how to swim.


The ceilings inside the building were breath taking, beautifully carved and painted,
dad really would have liked it.



One of my best memories happened the day I said to the hostel staff "What could we do today that would be really fun and not tourist?" Hiba said, "Why don't you come to my house!" Four of us joined Hiba that day, we took an hour long bus ride out of Marrakech. It was amazing to see the country side. It was also obvious by everyone's reactions that tourists never appear on the bus, everyone was staring and giggling at us.

We then flagged down a local taxi, aka a horse and wagon, and drove another 45 minutes out of town.

It was my first time taking a horse and wagon and I have to say it is a nice way to travel,
slow and steady, easy to see everything!

The traffic

My Xhosa grandfather would feel right at home here with all these donkeys!

When Hiba invited us to her house I didn't realize that her house was 800 years old!!! I thought she
was joking but her sister confirmed it. That is 3 times the age of my country!! Her family is
Berber who are thought to be the original people of Morocco.


Her house is made from the Earth, I was really impressed with the construction. The toilet is outside,
it is on the right in this picture, there was no door, I guess one needs to have good hearing

Hiba's mother was busy cooking dinner, they have two kitchens, this one and a more modern one with a fridge.

Hiba's Aunt came over to do Henna for us, it was so lovely

Good luck and good fortune

The ladies brought out two huge plates of vegetable couscous for us, and some spoons for us tourists.
We were joined by Hiba's three brothers, sister and mother. Her father was working in the city.

100% fresh produce

Then after we were stuffed full they brought out a plate of hand made pastries!

Mint tea is the thing to drink in Morocco, it is so tasty.


After a long day of receiving incredible hospitality from our Berber friends it was time to head home. Hiba called her friend with the horse and wagon and we ventured back to Marrakech. The next morning we headed to the market, a color labyrinth of maze-like streets, everywhere you look are things that are amazing, beautiful and interesting.
We met another family who treated us with kind Berber hospitality. As we entered this man's shop
we began chatting and before we knew it he had made a fresh pot of mint tea for us to enjoy. His son
joined us also.

The glasses were very hot so he served the glasses to us inside of little baby shoes ha ha

I bought several scarves from him and he showed me how to tie them Berber style.
I really like this style because the mouth covering can be put up or taken down very quickly.
It is really functional when there is a sand storm to protect yourself from the sand. It is also a nice
feature when you are around a lot of car spewing leaded fuel....

The man's son took us for a tour of the behind the scenes areas. My favorite was the dyer's market where
people hand dye sheep's wool.

The dye is all natural and they use many beautiful colors

Pretty wool balls



So many beautiful shoes and every one of them leather :( I guess you don't go to Morocco
to buy synthetic leather!

Our new friend, and my new German friend Romina

Speaking of wonderful people. This boy was the best salesman I have ever met in my life. I was
standing outside of his shop when he came outside to say hello. He said "you come with me and I will show you things". He took me by the hand and brought me to a wall of jars. "This one is for washing hair, and this one is for nice cooking, and this one is for upset stomach and this one....." He said he started working in the shop when he was only 3 years old, but he is in school too. He was so knowledgeable and I have to say it is pretty hard not to buy from him, he is so cute.
The city is surrounded by a wall, this is one of the pillars.


As our plane took off I was feeling so impressed with my time in Marrakech, I really loved it
and I cannot wait to go back. I was also really amazed by the thick cloud of smog over the city,
I guess that explains my scratcy throat. Time to switch to unleaded fuel Morocco!
See you soon.


One last video to make you smile. I took this while I walked through the main square.
As you can see from the end it was not appreciated. People want to be paid
if they appear on camera so I was quick to shut it off when my cover was blown ha ha.

Friday, November 19, 2010

Did anyone notice those cats?

One of the best things about Rome is when you have the opportunity to wander around and risk getting lost in one of the greatest cities in the world. It is really quite spectacular. A small group of us played tourist recently and we started our journey in the Jewish ghetto.

Hanging out in ancient Rome

Ladies, you know how we love our sexy firefighters calendar?
Well I present to you the jewish version

Walk, walk, walk, oh look an ancient building, walk walk walk


This is cat heaven, amongst the ancient city are a thousand well fed cats.
They live here and the locals provide them with all the food they could need!

Thursday, November 18, 2010

I am such a fan if protests

Every now and then I play tourist and roam the streets of Rome, ok, yes, I am aware that this rhymes.....

On this particular day we stumbled upon a very beautiful and peaceful protest against the Chinese government and their many human rights violations. There were so many people involved and I really respect their peaceful way of standing up for their rights.





Hello unexpected visitor!

One of the things I love about Italy is that their food is actually grown in real soil and not plastic substrate like in North America! How do I know, well first of all there is actual soil on the food here, and secondly every now and then I receive an unexpected visitor!


My my, who do we have here? Oh look it is a new friend, Mr. Slug!
Can't get much more fresh than this!

He is now part of our roof-top ecosystem, I gave him a new home in one of our plants,
sorry to the plant, I hope he does not eat you!

Wednesday, November 17, 2010

Gcinisizwe

I am certainly not naive enough to expect to marry a poor African man and still have an easy life, a exceptional, amazing life yes, but not easy. It appears that racism has reared it's ugly head again and this time at the Italian Embassy in Cape Town. Now to be clear I am not sure if it is due to race or wealth, but discrimination of some sort is playing a role in the latest developments.

A few days ago Gcinisizwe received a call from the embassy asking him to come to Cape Town, a 6 hour bus ride away which will cost Gcinisizwe a weeks pay. I emailed them to see what the latest news was, perhaps they wanted to meet him for a personal interview? I was shocked and heart broken to learn that in fact they do not want an interview, they want him to come all the way to Cape Town to sign a form saying that his visa was declined and that he needs to pick up his passport...... say what?

I investigated this matter and was forwarded to the woman who made the final decision. I could not understand it, he is my husband, I am here legally for school and I applied for a tourist visa for him to visit me during a short period of my stay. I provided all of the necessary materials that they asked for and in addition provided them with a multitude of supporting documents to prove that our love is real ie: newspaper articles, magazine articles etc.

So what could their reason possibly be to decline him? We did not satisfy them with 100% certainty that he would return to South Africa after his visa expires......Now I want you to think about that for a moment. How is it possible to prove such a thing unless you are in fact psychic? Who is to say that I will leave when my visa is finished, or anyone else that I know?

Their reason is one that I heard once before coming from the Canadian Embassy in South Africa (an office which like the Italian embassy is staffed by South Africans). To me this is a loop hole that they use in order to perpetuate racism and discrimination.

I even offered to pay a guarantee so that if he does not return I will lose my money, they said that once the decision is made they cannot reverse it. My only option now is to endure the horrific bureaucracy of the Roman appeals court. I am on my way there this morning. Being that I am not fluent in Italian I will need to bring a translator with me. I am so disappointed with humanity. Some woman sitting in her fancy office, with just a stroke of a pen, has made it so that I cannot see my husband for at least another year. All because he is poor and black. Way to keep the poor man poor.

In case you didn't have enough already

Apparently Rome has malls too! An hour bus ride out of the city centre lands you in a gigantic two levels shopping complex with everything your heart could desire. What a strange contrast to the tiny boutiques filled with love in the centre! I was feeling pretty crappy today due to my two recent bits of misfortune so Nadia took me on a road trip to the mall. We had a lot of fun together despite missing our bus stop, then taking the wrong bus several times. It is so funny knowing that you are those crazy people that you normally giggle at when home.

Flunch: half way between Lunch and Flupper

Nadia taking a break in the hand chair. Is he giving us the finger?